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The Two Seater

IMG_1831 My wife named this coop, the Two Seater

My motivation for this one (other than an uncontrollable desire to build more coops), was the need for show pens, or staging areas, for groups of 2 or 3 birds.  To get the show birds in top condition, I like to isolate them from the rest of the flock.  This reduces broken feathers, allows me to keep them cleaner, and to provide extra vitamins and a higher protein diet for awhile.  It also keeps away the roosters, so that the backs of the pullets or hens don’t get tattered.  Many exhibitors use individual cages for this purpose.

This coop is 4 ft x 12 ft, with a removal partition that allows for two adjacent 4 x 6 ft coops. I elevated the coop to provide increased outdoor run space without increasing the footprint of the combined coop/runs.    The elevation, combined with the narrow 4 ft width, allows me to reach all parts of the interior at waist height, from either of the two doors.  I made it just high enough that I can stand inside it if needed. (Seven feet down to 6 feet.) IMG_1423IMG_1425







IMG_1593IMG_1592I first sunk treated 4×4‘s, wrapped them with treated 2×6’s, and then covered this with ¾ in. exterior grade plywood.  For the floor, I covered the plywood with a scrap of linoleum, and then sealed the edges with some extra roofing tar I had.  I constructed the wall framing in my barn and had some teenage boys carry them to the job site for me. I used hurricane clips to which I affixed the 2×4 rafters, covered the rafters with OSB, covered this with roofing felt, and used metal drip molding around the edges.  Then came the 2×2 purlins, followed by fiberglass (Ondura) roofing panels. I used pre-primed T11 siding, and cedar for the trim and doors.  For the doors, I used tongue in grove 5/8 in. thick fencing boards.  The cedar is relatively expensive, but I like the light weight and rot resistance. The windows are the type made for mini-barns.  Not much insulation value but sufficient for my needs.

The runs affixed to either side are a bit less than 4 ft wide by 7 ft long.  These dimensions allowed me to avoid cutting the roofing panels lengthwise, and 8ft lumber was sufficient.  I also prefer a 3 ft wide door opening (actual opening is closer to 32 inches).  I wrapped all sides of the framework, including the top, with 4 ft. wide ½ in. hardware cloth.  I extended the hardware cloth so that I had an 18 to 20 in. skirt along the bottom, which I eventually covered with a few inches of top soil.  This is much easier than digging and burying the hardware cloth. Inside, I insulated between the studs, and then covered them with white shower board.  This is as cheap as, or cheaper than most wood sheet material, and cleans up easily.  I constructed a partition and covered this with chicken wire.  A section can be removed should I want the inhabitants to have access to both sides.  (I learned quickly if roosters are in both sides, they will tear themselves up fighting through the wire, so I installed a temporary cardboard barrier over the chicken wire.)  I used poop boards on either side, which I can scrape off with a paint scraper into a bucket from outside the coop. IMG_1484IMG_1488IMG_1504IMG_1524

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